My Gluten Free Guide

Travel: Gluten Free Umbria

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Umbria is often overlooked by travellers heading to its more famous neighbour, Tuscany, but this Italian region has so much to offer, especially to those looking to escape the main tourist throng. Enchanting hill towns with cool cobbled streets, luscious local wines (the ones from Orvieto are a new favourite of mine) and rolling countryside await discovery in Umbria.

Coeliac and other gluten free visitors will find plenty of safe food options dotted across the region and this gluten free Umbria guide will help you to locate them easily. From fully gluten free bakeries to coeliac safe pizza and ice cream, your tummy will be as happy as your tastebuds!

This gluten free Umbria guide is broken down by town/city, listed in alphabetical order for ease. Scroll to the end of an interactive map allowing you to see all the eateries listed by location. This should make it easier for you to find the gluten free friendly spots near you when you are in Umbria.

Gluten Free Umbria

Assisi

One of the best preserved cities in the world, Assisi is often cited as one of the jewels in Umbria’s crown. My parents visited while we were in Umbria but did mention that it was packed with coach trips and wasn’t the most relaxing of visits. Here are a few restaurants and a hotel I have seen recommended on Trip Advisor and will check out when we visit on our 2020 trip:

  • Nonna Nini – well reviewed for gluten free pasta and coeliac awareness, with gluten free bread and other choices available.
  • Osteria Piazzetta dell’Erba – this restaurant caters well not only for coeliacs but also for other dietary requirements upon request.
  • Ristorante “Taverna dei Consoli” – reviewers say this place has good gluten free choices including a gluten free dessert option.
  • Hotel Alexander – this hotel is able to offer a good selection of gluten free breakfast items and products upon request when you place your booking.

Marmore Falls

Spectacular man-made (by the Romans) waterfalls with some hiking options. Highly recommended for a visit. I spotted some gluten free pizza options at the La Cascata Bistrot on site but I personally would buy some lunch in neighbouring Terni as there are multiple gluten free bakeries there (see Terni below for full details). We bought some supplies to enjoy while hiking the trails.

Narni

A classic Umbrian hill town with cobbled streets and a historic centre. Here are some restaurant and hotel options, including a couple recommended by my parents:

  • Il Gattamelata – this popular restaurant serves traditional Umbrian cuisine and is able to cater well for coeliac and gluten free diners. They have solid processes in place to minimise any risk of cross contamination.
  • La Bottega del Guillare – my (coeliac) mum really enjoyed her meal here, having a lovely gluten free polenta dish with ragu sauce.
  • Al Canto del Gallo – my parents stayed at the La Terra Umbra hotel and said the onsite restaurant caters gluten free.

Norcia

A small town in South East Umbria famous for its produce (wild boar salami, porcini mushrooms, truffle oil and cheeses), which was terribly hit by the recent earthquake. They are rebuilding the town and I am sure tourist revenue would be gratefully received.

  • Restaurant Trattoria Dei Priori – a short drive from the centre, this restaurant offers homemade gluten free pasta. What a treat! Their website specifically mentions their ability to cater for coeliacs, with gnocchi, tortellini and ravioli, homemade gluten free bread and gluten free versions of their house speciality dishes.
  • Granaro Del Monte Restaurant – in the centre of Norcia and listed in the Michelin guide, this restaurant offers various gluten free options including pasta and homemade bread. Their food receives some rave reviews.

Orvieto

We loved Orvieto and spent a wonderful half day exploring its winding streets and historic piazzas. Be sure to see the stunning Duomo (cathedral) while you are in Orvieto and take a trip down the Well of St Patrick for a subterranean view!

  • Antica Cantina – L’Osteria delle Donne – my top recommendation is this Italian coeliac society-accredited bistro, where we stopped for lunch. The food was absolutely excellent and perfectly showcased traditional Umbrian cuisine. 90% of the dishes on the menu can be made gluten free and they have gluten free bread and pasta available. We ate the truffle and sausage pasta, chicken stew with olives, roast potatoes and mixed salad. Washed down with the house white wine. Perfection.
  • Trattoria Buca di Bacco – across the road from Antica Cantina is this restaurant with small garden. They were advertising gluten free options when we visited so could be worth checking out.
  • Trattoria Vinosus – this restaurant next to the duomo has a lovely terrace with city views and offers gluten free pasta and bread.
  • Bar Tortuga – in a little square on one of the main throughways, this cafe bar offers gluten free pizza and pasta. I am not sure to what quality…but maybe worth investigating!

Perugia  

A wonderful place to go for a day trip. Incredible buildings and stunning views across the surrounding countryside are just some of the highlights. The bonus for coeliac travellers is that gluten free Perugia finds are aplenty, from a 100% gluten free gelateria to crepes and piadine that are certified as safe by the AIC (Italian Coeliac Society).

See my Gluten Free Perugia guide for full details and recommendations

Spello

Another medieval historic Umbrian town, be sure to visit for the flower festival in May and June if you can, when the city comes alive with colourful blooms. Here are some gluten free restaurant and hotel options:

  • Come Mamma Sa Fa – this small restaurant offers gluten free choices and even runs gluten free cookery courses. It may actually be fully gluten free but I haven’t visited personally to confirm this.
  • Il Pinturicchio – a restaurant with gluten free options on the menu, including pasta.
  • Ristorante Porta Venere – gluten free options, including pasta.
  • Villa Pandolfi – this accommodation near Spello offers gluten free choices at breakfast, simply notify them upon booking.

Spoleto

Spoleto is a sprawling town with very attractive older upper town and famous medieval bridge, located in South East Umbria. Options for gluten free dining as follows:

  • Ristorante Il Capanno – coeliac menu and accredited by the AIC, this is a great choice. Choices include various pastas, bruschette, roasted artichoke and pistachio semifreddo, plus all the main courses can be made gluten free. They also have a couple of rooms to rent, so it might be a good place to stay.
  • Cuore & Sapore – this restaurant has a gluten free menu available with plenty of choices and homemade gnocchi.
  • Taverna La Lanterna – this bistro has a wide range of gluten free choices and takes catering for coeliac very seriously.
  • Borgo della Marmotta Farm Resort & Restaurant – this accommodation is AIC accredited and they are very able at catering for coeliac and other gluten free guests.

Terni

Not an essential stop but worth passing through as there are three gluten free bakeries, a fully gluten free supermarket and a coeliac friendly ice cream shop to be discovered! You could combine a trip to Terni with a visit to the amazing Marmore Falls, which as very close to the city.

  • Il Forno di Babette – some of the best gluten free treats I have had in Italy, the selection of goods I bought from this tiny fully gluten free bakery were all excellent. Gluten free palmier biscuits, pizza sfoglia (think croissant pizza sandwich…it was amazing), fresh pasta and pizza by the slice. They also sell bread, lots of cakes and savouries, as well as remade lasagne and other ready meals.
  • Delizie Senza Glutine – in a rather nondescript part of town, this fully gluten free bakery is located next to a big Coop supermarket so you could combine with your supermarket shop. Lovely, friendly staff and a big range of gluten free products. My mum had a gluten free lactose free tiramisu from here, which she really enjoyed.
  • Gelateria Andrea – this ice cream shop is Italian coeliac society-accredited and have really good processes if you tell them you are coeliac. Gluten free ice cream cones, clean paddle and scooping from the untouched end of the ice cream, plus all the gluten free ice creams stored in a dedicated cabinet (the largest one). They also have some solid lactose free options PLUS the option of a Nutella shot on top of your ice cream yassssssss.
  • Ramozzi Zero Glutine – the perfect pit stop for lunch on the way back from the Marmore Falls, this cafe/bakery has a dedicated gluten free section and kitchen alongside a regular one. Making it perfect if you are with non-gluten eaters as you can all eat happily and safely. Gluten free pizza and suppli (a bit like arancini rice balls), loads of cakes and pastries (including eclairs) and more.
  • Il Mondo Senza Glutine – a small fully gluten free supermarket selling an extensive range of gluten free products, from fresh pasta and (frozen) fresh pizzas to biscuits, cakes and more.

Todi

A beautiful little hilltop town with incredible views across the surrounding countryside, Todi is well worth a visit for a big lunch or evening meal. We ate here twice and I can heartily recommend both restaurants.

  • Ristorante Pizzeria Le Scalette – my favourite, based on the quality of the food and the wide range of gluten free dishes on offer. Nearly everything on the menu can be made gluten free and they have a dedicated fryer for the gluten free options. We tried lots of dishes between us, including gluten free pasta, meats and soups, but the star of the show was the gluten free mixed vegetarian antipasto board featuring deep fried courgette flowers, arancini, deep fried mozzarella and more. So good. Oh, another amazing starter was the grilled pecorino cheese – excellent! Panoramic outdoor terrace.
  • Ristorante Pizzeria Cavour – coeliac-safe gluten free pizza available here. The bases are frozen ones I think but still very nice. I was spoilt slightly after our trip to Naples with all the handmade gluten free pizza bases. They have a huge pizza menu, so I went for the left-field but delicious topping combo of mozzarella, courgette flowers, anchovies and burrata. Large outdoor terrace.

Gluten Free Umbria Map

So that’s my gluten free Umbria round up! We are visiting the region again in 2020 so do let me know if you have any other tips by emailing me at mygfguide@gmail.com or messaging me on social media.

While you are here, why not check out some of my other Italian travel guides:

Happy travels! x

* This guide contains some affiliate links, meaning no impact on you but enabling me to keep running My Gluten Free Guide as a free website that is open to all :).

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